BTMS 50 (Behentrimonium methossulfate)

Product Information

CosmySupplies supplies BTMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate, 55% active granules) in India, a cationic conditioning emulsifier widely used as the primary conditioning agent in rinse-out conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and hair masks. CAS: 81646-13-1. COA available on request. Minimum order from 100 g. Suitable for hair conditioners, hair masks, body lotions, and skin conditioning emulsions. Usage level 0.5% to 5%. Shipped from Bengaluru across India. Available at cosmysupplies.com.

INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (55% active in granule form)

Trade Name: BTMS-50

CAS Number: 81646-13-1

EINECS: 279-791-1

Molecular Formula: C26H57NO4S | Molecular Weight: 479.81

COSING Functions: Antistatic | Hair Conditioning Agent | Skin Conditioning Agent | Emulsifying Agent

Physical Form: White granules. Active content ≥55%.

pH (1% IPA/H2O solution): 4.0 to 7.0

Charge: Cationic (positively charged quaternary ammonium compound)

Used In: Rinse-Out Hair Conditioners | Leave-In Conditioners | Hair Masks | Conditioning Shampoos | Body Lotions | Skin Conditioning Emulsions | Foundation and Colour Cosmetics

BTMS-50 is the industry standard cationic conditioning emulsifier for hair care formulations. The active ingredient — Behentrimonium Methosulfate — is a quaternary ammonium compound with a long C22 (behenic acid-derived) carbon chain. This chain length gives it superior substantivity on the hair surface compared to shorter-chain quaternary ammonium compounds.

As a cationic (positively charged) surfactant, Behentrimonium Methosulfate is attracted to the negatively charged surface of damaged or chemically treated hair. It adsorbs onto the hair cuticle and forms a thin conditioning film that reduces friction between hair fibres, improves wet and dry combability, and reduces static electricity that causes frizz and flyaways.

The 50 in BTMS-50 refers to the approximate active content of the most common commercial grade — 50% active behentrimonium methosulfate. Your stock is the 55% active granule grade, which is a slightly more concentrated variant of the same compound. The additional active content means you use marginally less to achieve the same conditioning effect compared to BTMS-50 at 50% active.

In addition to its conditioning function, BTMS-50 acts as a self-emulsifying wax in heated formulations. When melted with water at 65 to 75 degrees C and mixed, it creates stable oil-in-water emulsions without requiring additional emulsifying agents, making it a dual-function ingredient in conditioner and cream formulations. This self-emulsifying property is what distinguishes BTMS-50 from non-self-emulsifying conditioning agents.

Benefits

•        Cationic conditioning agent: Behentrimonium Methosulfate is a Hair Conditioning Agent and Skin Conditioning Agent. The cationic charge creates substantive adsorption onto the hair and skin surface, delivering conditioning function that persists after rinsing. S

•        Anti-static function: Antistatic is a primary function. The cationic film deposited on the hair surface neutralises the negative static charge that causes frizz, flyaways, and hair clinging. 

•        Self-emulsifying wax for hair and skin formulations: At 65 to 75 degrees C, BTMS-50 melts and emulsifies into the water phase, forming a stable oil-in-water emulsion without additional emulsifying agents. This makes it a single-component solution for both conditioning and emulsification in rinse-out conditioner and cream formulations. 

•        Improves wet and dry combability: The conditioning film deposited by Behentrimonium Methosulfate reduces interfibre friction, which improves the ease of combing wet hair immediately after rinsing and dry hair thereafter. 

•        Reduces static electricity and frizz: The cationic film neutralises the negative electrostatic charge on the hair surface that causes static-induced frizz and flyaways. 

•        Film-forming surface protection: The conditioning film deposited on the hair surface may create a barrier that reduces moisture loss from the hair shaft. This is a physical film-forming function, not a humectant function. 

•        Skin conditioning emulsifier for lotions and creams: In skin care emulsions at 0.5% to 2%, BTMS-50 contributes conditioning skin feel and emulsification function. 

•        Compatible with acidic actives and electrolytes: As a non-anionic (cationic, not soap-based) self-emulsifying wax, BTMS-50 is compatible with acidic actives such as Lactic Acid, glycolic acid, and electrolytes. This is a significant formulation advantage over anionic self-emulsifying waxes. 

Applications

Rinse-Out Hair Conditioner: Primary application. Use at 2% to 5% as the conditioning emulsifier base. Melt BTMS-50 with any oil phase ingredients at 65 to 75 degrees C, add heated water phase, mix and cool. Creates a stable cream-consistency conditioner without additional emulsifiers. Adjust to lower end of range for thinner, lightweight conditioners.

Leave-In Conditioner: Use at 0.5% to 2% for a lighter conditioning emulsion suitable for leave-in application. Lower use levels produce thinner, more fluid textures appropriate for spray or pump bottle leave-in formats.

Deep Conditioning Hair Mask: Use at 3% to 5% with additional fatty alcohols and conditioning oils for an intensive mask formulation. The higher use level creates a thicker, more substantive conditioning deposit on the hair.

Conditioning Shampoo: Add at 0.5% to 1% to a shampoo base for a conditioning shampoo with improved post-wash combability. Cationic and anionic surfactants interact — test for compatibility with your specific anionic surfactant system before finalising formula.

Skin Conditioning Body Lotion: Use at 0.5% to 2% as a conditioning emulsifier in a skin lotion formulation. Contributes conditioning skin feel alongside the emulsification function.

Foundation and Colour Cosmetics: At 0.5% to 2%, BTMS-50 improves spreadability and provides a conditioning skin feel in foundation emulsions. The cationic character improves adhesion of the formulation to the skin surface.

How to Use

Recommended Use Level: 0.5% to 1% (light conditioning) | 2% to 3% (standard rinse-out conditioner) | 3% to 5% (intensive conditioning mask or cream). Adjust per formulation type and desired texture.

Phase Addition: Add BTMS-50 to the oil phase. Heat oil phase to 65 to 75 degrees C until granules are fully melted. Add heated water phase (also at 65 to 75 degrees C) slowly with high-speed stirring. Switch to slow sweep mixing until emulsion cools to approximately 30 degrees C.

Processing Temperature: 65 to 75 degrees C for melt and emulsification. Do not add below melting temperature — granules will not disperse properly.

Viscosity Development: Representative viscosity typically appears after the emulsion has rested for 24 hours at room temperature. Do not assess final texture immediately after formulation.

pH Range: The resulting emulsion can be pH adjusted between 4.0 and 9.0. Compatible with acidic actives and electrolytes. Do not use in alkaline soap-based systems — cationic and anionic charges will interact.

Anionic Incompatibility: BTMS-50 is cationic. Do not combine with strongly anionic ingredients such as soap or SLS at high concentrations in the same phase — charge interaction will compromise conditioning performance and may destabilise the emulsion.

Claims You Can Make

For your label and marketing:

Behentrimonium Methosulfate | Cationic Conditioning Emulsifier | BTMS-50 | Hair Conditioning Agent | Anti-Static | Conditioning

For your formulator brief:

BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate) — cationic conditioning emulsifier | 55% active granules | Oil phase addition | Melt at 65 to 75 degrees C | Self-emulsifying — no additional emulsifier required | Cationic: incompatible with strongly anionic systems | pH stable 4.0 to 9.0 | Compatible with acidic actives and electrolytes | 0.5% to 5% usage level

For formulation ratios, batch guidance, and troubleshooting support, contact the CosmySupplies team directly.

WhatsApp   |  Email: info@cosmysupplies.com

Technical Information

Pairs Well With

Cetearyl Alcohol at 2% to 4% in a rinse-out conditioner alongside BTMS-50 at 3% to 4% is the most widely used hair conditioner base combination. Cetearyl Alcohol thickens the emulsion and contributes additional conditioning texture, while BTMS-50 provides the cationic conditioning and emulsification. Together they form the classic two-ingredient conditioner base. 

Panthenol at 0.5% to 2% in a conditioner or hair mask alongside BTMS-50 adds humectant and hair shaft penetration function to the cationic conditioning base. Panthenol penetrates the cortex of the hair and contributes flexibility, while BTMS-50 conditions the cuticle surface. A standard combination in premium conditioner formulations. 

Argan Oil or any conditioning hair oil at 1% to 5% in the oil phase alongside BTMS-50 creates a conditioning emulsion with combined surface conditioning (BTMS) and lipid-replenishment (oil) benefits. BTMS-50 emulsifies the oil into the conditioner without additional emulsifiers. AKSHATHA CONFIRM: verify your conditioning hair oil SKU is live.

Niacinamide at 2% to 5% in the water phase of a conditioning lotion alongside BTMS-50 creates a skin conditioning and barrier-supporting body lotion. BTMS-50 is compatible with Niacinamide at standard use levels — test for compatibility in your specific formulation. Available at cosmysupplies.com/niacinamide.

Glycerin at 2% to 5% in the water phase of a conditioner or lotion alongside BTMS-50 adds humectant function to the conditioning emulsion. Glycerin draws moisture to the hair surface while BTMS-50 deposits the conditioning film. Standard combination in moisturising conditioners.

Important Information

For formulation use in cosmetic products. BTMS-50 is a cationic ingredient. Do not combine with strongly anionic surfactants such as soap or SLS at high concentrations in the same phase — electrostatic interaction will compromise conditioning performance and may destabilise the emulsion.

Always add BTMS-50 to the oil phase. Granules must be fully melted at 65 to 75 degrees C before the water phase is added. Adding BTMS-50 to cold water will not produce a functional emulsion.

Final emulsion viscosity is time-dependent. Do not assess the finished texture of a BTMS-50 conditioner immediately after cooling — representative viscosity typically develops after 24 hours rest at room temperature. Adjust usage level only after 24-hour assessment.

BTMS-50 is compatible with a wide pH range (4.0 to 9.0) and tolerates acidic actives such as Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and electrolytes. This is a meaningful formulation advantage over anionic self-emulsifying waxes.