Glycolic acid

Product Information

CosmySupplies supplies Glycolic Acid cosmetic grade (INCI: Glycolic Acid, CAS: 79-14-1) in India. Assay specification NMT 99.0%. The smallest molecular weight AHA for cosmetic exfoliant formulations. Water-soluble. Use at 0.5 to 6.0% in toners, serums, creams, and cleansers. Functions as a keratolytic exfoliant and skin conditioning agent. COA available on request. Shipped from Bengaluru across India.

INCI: Glycolic Acid  |  CAS: 79-14-1  |  Molecular Formula: C2H4O3  |  Molecular Weight: 76.05 (smallest of all AHAs)

Natural Source: Naturally occurring in sugarcane, sugar beet, unripe grapes.

COSING Functions: Keratolytic | Skin Conditioning Agent | pH Adjuster

Used In: AHA Toners | Exfoliant Serums | Chemical Peel Pads | Leave-On Creams | Cleansers | Masks

Glycolic Acid (2-hydroxyacetic acid) is the alpha hydroxy acid with the smallest molecular weight — 76.05 daltons. This small size gives it a key formulation advantage: of all commonly used AHAs (lactic acid, mandelic acid, citric acid), glycolic acid penetrates the stratum corneum most readily, delivering its exfoliant effect at lower concentrations. It works as a keratolytic by loosening the ionic bonds that hold corneocytes (dead skin cells) together at the surface of the stratum corneum, accelerating the natural desquamation process and revealing fresher skin cells below. At cosmetic concentrations (0.5 to 6.0%), glycolic acid is used in leave-on toners, serums, and creams for a gentle, accumulating exfoliant effect. It is the most widely used AHA in the Indian indie skin care market, with very strong buyer recognition across DIY formulators and startup brand founders.

Glycolic acid is water-soluble and highly pH-dependent: its keratolytic activity is greatest at lower pH (around 3.5 to 4.0) and diminishes significantly above pH 5.0. Formulation pH is therefore a critical variable — a glycolic acid toner at pH 6.0 has significantly lower exfoliant activity than the same formula at pH 3.8, even at the same glycolic acid concentration.

Benefits

•        Keratolytic exfoliant — smallest AHA molecular weight: Glycolic acid's molecular weight of 76.05 daltons is the lowest of all commercially used AHAs. Glycolic Acid is a keratolytic and skin conditioning agent. The small molecular size enables more rapid skin penetration than lactic acid, mandelic acid, or citric acid at equivalent concentrations, making it the most potent cosmetic AHA by weight for exfoliant-positioned formulations.

•        pH-dependent exfoliant activity: Glycolic acid functions as an exfoliant when formulated at an acidic pH (optimal range 3.5 to 4.5 for significant keratolytic activity at cosmetic use levels). At pH above 5.0 the acid is largely neutralised and the keratolytic activity diminishes substantially. This pH dependency makes glycolic acid a technically demanding but highly controllable active for formulators who understand AHA chemistry.

•        Skin conditioning and humectant function: Glycolic Acid is a skin conditioning agent. At lower concentrations (0.5 to 2%) in a well-formulated base, glycolic acid contributes a skin conditioning effect alongside the exfoliant function — published secondary literature associates glycolic acid with improved stratum corneum hydration at cosmetic concentrations.

•        Water-soluble: Glycolic acid is fully water-soluble, enabling straightforward incorporation into the water phase of any cosmetic formulation system without a solubiliser. Dissolves readily in water at standard cosmetic preparation temperatures.

•        99.0% assay specification: Specification NMT 99.0%. 

•        Natural origin — sugarcane-derived: Glycolic acid occurs naturally in sugarcane, sugar beet, and unripe grapes. Most commercial glycolic acid is synthetically manufactured.

Applications

AHA Exfoliant Toner: Glycolic acid at 3 to 6% in a water base at pH 3.5 to 4.0 creates a leave-on exfoliant toner — the most commercially popular AHA application in the Indian indie skin care market. Apply 0.5 to 1ml to cleansed skin after cleansing and before moisturiser. This is the classic 'acid toner' format popularised by K-beauty brands. A graduated start is recommended for new users: begin at every third day application, increase frequency based on tolerance.

AHA Serum: At 2 to 5% alongside Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, or other water-phase actives in a serum base, glycolic acid creates a multifunctional exfoliant-plus-active serum. The pH of the serum must be set to 4.0 to 5.0 for meaningful exfoliant activity — confirm pH after all actives are incorporated.

Exfoliant Cleanser: At 0.5 to 2% in a rinse-off cleanser base, glycolic acid adds a mild exfoliant function to the cleansing step. In a rinse-off product the contact time is limited — use at the higher end of this range (1.5 to 2%) and keep the cleanser pH at 4.5 to 5.0.

Leave-On Cream: At 0.5 to 3% in a leave-on moisturiser or night cream, glycolic acid provides a gentle cumulative exfoliant effect at a comfortable skin pH. Lower concentrations (0.5 to 1%) are appropriate for sensitive skin positioning and for daily-use moisturisers where a mild exfoliant effect is a secondary function.

How to Use

Recommended Use Level: 0.5 to 6.0% of total formula weight. The commercially standard leave-on exfoliant toner concentration is 3 to 5%. For a first-launch product, 3% at pH 3.8 to 4.0 is a commercially relevant and well-tolerated starting point.

pH — Critical for Activity: Glycolic acid exfoliant activity is pH-dependent. Formulate at pH 3.5 to 4.5 for meaningful keratolytic effect. Above pH 5.0 the activity diminishes significantly. Always measure and adjust pH after all actives and preservatives are incorporated. Use citric acid to lower pH or sodium hydroxide solution to raise pH. 

Phase Addition: Water-soluble. Dissolve in the water phase of formulations. Glycolic acid is pH-acidic in solution — add it before other actives and adjust pH after all additions. Do not add to formulations containing ingredients that are pH-sensitive above pH 5.0 without confirming compatibility.

Sun Protection Advisory: AHAs including glycolic acid increase UV sensitivity of the skin. Finished products containing glycolic acid must carry a sun protection advisory on the label: 'This product contains an AHA that may increase skin sensitivity to sun. Use sun protection and limit sun exposure while using this product and for one week after discontinuing use.'

Patch Test Recommendation: Include a patch test recommendation in finished product instructions. Glycolic acid is an active ingredient — new users should patch test before full-face application, particularly at concentrations above 3%.

Preservative System: Glycolic acid contributes to the overall preservation of the formulation by lowering pH below 5.0. At pH 3.5 to 4.5, Sodium Benzoate is an effective and synergistic preservative choice. Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin) at 0.5 to 1% is also compatible.

For formulation ratios, batch guidance, and troubleshooting support, contact the CosmySupplies team directly.

WhatsApp   |  Email: info@cosmysupplies.com

Claims You Can Make

For your label and marketing:

AHA Exfoliant | Glycolic Acid Active | Keratolytic | Skin Conditioning | pH-Active Exfoliant

For your formulator brief:

Keratolytic | Skin Conditioning Agent | Glycolic Acid | CAS 79-14-1 | Smallest molecular weight AHA | Water-soluble | pH-dependent exfoliant activity (optimal pH 3.5 to 4.5)

Technical Information

Pairs Well With

Niacinamide at 3 to 5% in the same formulation as Glycolic Acid requires careful pH management. Niacinamide is effective at pH 5.0 to 7.0, while glycolic acid's exfoliant activity requires pH 3.5 to 4.5. The combination works best when formulated as a layering system rather than a single product: glycolic acid toner first (pH 3.8 to 4.0), followed by Niacinamide serum (pH 5.5 to 6.5) after 10 to 15 minutes. In a single product combining both actives, target pH 5.0 — this moderates exfoliant activity but enables meaningful Niacinamide function.

Hyaluronic Acid at 0.1 to 0.5% in a glycolic acid toner or serum base provides humectant hydration that counterbalances the potential drying effect of glycolic acid at higher concentrations. The combination is the foundation of a balanced exfoliant-plus-hydration formula — glycolic acid removes the dead skin cells, HA draws moisture to the freshly exposed surface.

Betaine Powder at 2 to 3% in a glycolic acid toner reinforces the humectant function alongside hyaluronic acid and reduces the drying effect of the low-pH glycolic acid environment.

Allantoin at 0.2 to 0.5% in a glycolic acid formulation provides a soothing and skin conditioning counterbalance to the exfoliant activity of glycolic acid, reducing post-exfoliation sensitivity and supporting a comfortable user experience.