Kojic Acid Dipalmitate

Product Information

CosmySupplies supplies Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (INCI: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, CAS: 79725-98-7) in India. Oil-soluble brightening active. Specification Kojic acid NMT 98%. Use at 1 to 3% in the oil phase of creams, lotions, and emulsion serums. Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, sunscreens, and preservatives. COA available on request. Shipped from Bengaluru across India.

INCI: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate  |  CAS: 79725-98-7  |  Molecular Formula: C38H66O6  |  Class: Ester derivative of Kojic Acid

COSING Functions: Skin Conditioning Agent | Antioxidant

Solubility: Oil-soluble. Incorporate into oil phase. Not water-soluble.

Used In: Brightening Creams and Lotions | Emulsion Serums | Day Creams with SPF | Eye Creams | Skin Conditioning Formulations

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is the dipalmitoyl ester of Kojic Acid — a derivative form that solves the primary formulation challenge of free Kojic Acid (instability and water-solubility). Free Kojic Acid is water-soluble and notoriously unstable, turning yellow-brown on exposure to light, air, and heat. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is produced by esterifying the two hydroxyl groups of Kojic Acid with palmitic acid chains, creating an oil-soluble molecule that is significantly more stable in cosmetic emulsion formulations than the free acid form.

The palmitate chains make Kojic Acid Dipalmitate oil-soluble, meaning it can be incorporated into the oil phase of creams and lotions where it remains stable across a much wider pH range than free Kojic Acid. In the skin, the ester bonds are cleaved by skin lipases and esterases to release free Kojic Acid in the skin layers, where it functions as a skin conditioning active. This prodrug mechanism delivers the benefits of Kojic Acid with the formulation stability advantages of the ester form — the same design principle as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid for Vitamin C.

Benefits

•        Oil-soluble Kojic Acid derivative — improved formulation stability: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is oil-soluble, enabling stable incorporation into the oil phase of emulsion formulations. It does not exhibit the rapid oxidative discolouration (yellowing to brown) characteristic of free Kojic Acid in aqueous cosmetic products. This is the primary commercial advantage over free Kojic Acid.

•        Skin conditioning active: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is a skin conditioning agent. Used in skin conditioning formulations where a brightening cosmetic active positioned for complexion-evening is required.

•        Antioxidant function : COSING confirms antioxidant function. The kojic acid structural unit has antioxidant properties that contribute to the formulation's oxidative stability alongside the active function.

•        Compatible with sunscreens and preservatives : It is compatibale with all kinds of preservatives and sunscreen. This makes Kojic Acid Dipalmitate suitable for formulation in day creams with SPF and multi-active brightening day cream formats without reformulation concerns.

•        Use level 1 to 3%:  This is consistent with published formulation guidance for Kojic Acid Dipalmitate in cosmetic creams and lotions.

•        No photosensitivity: No light sensitivity. Unlike free Kojic Acid which is photosensitive, the dipalmitate form does not cause increased UV sensitivity per supplier. 

Applications

Brightening Day Cream: Incorporate at 1 to 3% in the oil phase of a day cream emulsion alongside an SPF active. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate's compatibility with sunscreens and preservatives  makes it a practical choice for SPF day cream formulations where a brightening active is required. Melt into the oil phase at 70 to 75 degrees Celsius before combining with the water phase.

Skin Conditioning Night Cream: Use at 2 to 3% in the oil phase of a night cream formulation. Night cream positioning allows for a higher use level and longer leave-on time. Combine with Niacinamide in the water phase for a multi-active skin conditioning and complexion-evening night cream.

Emulsion Serum: At 1 to 2% in the oil phase of a light emulsion serum, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate provides the brightening active function in a lighter, faster-absorbing texture than a cream. Suitable for oily to normal skin types in humid Indian climates where a full cream texture may feel heavy.

Eye Cream: At 0.5 to 1% in the oil phase of an eye area cream, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate provides a skin conditioning active suitable for the delicate periorbital area. The lower concentration appropriate for eye area use reduces any potential for local skin sensitivity.

How to Use

Recommended Use Level: 1 to 3% of total formula weight.

Phase and Temperature — Critical: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is oil-soluble. Add to the oil phase ONLY. Melt into the oil phase at 70 to 75 degrees Celsius with gentle stirring until fully dissolved before combining with the water phase in emulsification. Do not add to the water phase — it will not dissolve and will cause formulation failure.

Emulsification: Once fully dissolved in the oil phase, proceed with standard emulsification. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is compatible with standard cosmetic emulsifier systems including cetearyl alcohol-based, polysorbate-based, and lecithin-based emulsifiers. The emulsification temperature must be maintained above the melting point of Kojic Acid Dipalmitate until the emulsion is formed.

Compatibility: Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, and sunscreen actives per Vital-Chem TDS. Conduct compatibility and stability testing with your specific formulation before commercial production.

pH Range: As an oil-soluble ester, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is less pH-sensitive than free Kojic Acid. Compatible across the standard cosmetic emulsion pH range of 5.0 to 7.5. No pH adjustment required specifically for this ingredient.

Stability Testing: Conduct accelerated stability testing (40 degrees Celsius, 75% RH for 12 weeks minimum) before commercial launch. Monitor for colour change, phase separation, and any odour development.

For formulation ratios, batch guidance, and troubleshooting support, contact the CosmySupplies team directly.

WhatsApp   |  Email: info@cosmysupplies.com

Claims You Can Make

For your label and marketing:

Oil-Soluble Brightening Active | Skin Conditioning | Kojic Acid Derivative | Antioxidant | Complexion-Evening

For your formulator brief:

Skin Conditioning Agent | Antioxidant | Oil-soluble ester of Kojic Acid | CAS 79725-98-7 | Compatible with sunscreens and preservatives | Use 1 to 3% in oil phase at 70 to 75 degrees Celsius

Technical Information

Pairs Well With

Niacinamide at 3 to 5% in the water phase alongside Kojic Acid Dipalmitate at 2% in the oil phase creates a multi-active skin conditioning and brightening emulsion where both actives address complexion concerns through different mechanisms and different phases of the formulation. This combination is commercially relevant for premium Indian indie brightening creams.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid at 1 to 2% in the water phase alongside Kojic Acid Dipalmitate at 2% in the oil phase creates a dual-active brightening formulation combining Vitamin C antioxidant function (water phase) with the oil-soluble kojic acid ester (oil phase). A premium two-mechanism brightening formula.

Alpha Arbutin at 0.5 to 2% in the water phase combined with Kojic Acid Dipalmitate in the oil phase creates a multi-active brightening formulation targeting the same enzymatic pathway (tyrosinase) through two different molecular forms.

Daisy Flower Extract in the water phase alongside Kojic Acid Dipalmitate in the oil phase creates a dual-active brightening formulation combining a botanical brightening extract (water phase) with the oil-soluble kojic acid ester (oil phase).

Sunscreen Actives (SPF) are compatible with Kojic Acid Dipalmitate — making this ingredient a practical choice for brightening day cream formulations with SPF protection where a Vitamin C or tyrosinase-pathway brightening active is required in the oil phase.

Important Information

OIL PHASE ONLY: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is oil-soluble and must be incorporated into the oil phase of emulsion formulations at 70 to 75 degrees Celsius. Adding to the water phase will result in formulation failure.For formulation use in cosmetic products. Oil-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. For external cosmetic use in finished products only. Keep out of reach of children. Store sealed away from direct sunlight.