Pullulan

Product Information

CosmySupplies supplies Pullulan Cosmetic Grade (INCI: Pullulan) in India. Water-soluble film-forming polysaccharide. COSMOS approved. Halal certified. Use 0.1 to 5.0% in serums, toners, and creams. Use 10 to 20% in peel-off and wash-off masks. Fermentation-derived from starch syrup. COA available on request. Shipped from Bengaluru across India.

INCI: Pullulan  |  CAS: 9057-02-7  |  Class: Water-soluble polysaccharide  |  Source: Fermentation of starch syrup by Aureobasidium pullulans

COSING Functions: Film Forming | Skin Conditioning Agent | Adhesive | Antistatic | Hair Conditioning

Certifications: ECOCERT GREENLIFE verified | COSMOS approved | Halal certified | China IECIC listed

Used In: Instant Tightening Serums | Peel-Off Masks | Wash-Off Masks | Sheet Masks | Toners | Creams | Foundations | Mascaras | Hair Styling Products

Pullulan is a water-soluble polysaccharide produced through the fermentation of starch syrup by the naturally occurring fungus Aureobasidium pullulans — a biotechnology-derived ingredient with above 95% natural-origin content. Its molecular structure consists of maltotriose units linked by alpha-1,6-glycosidic bonds, creating a linear polymer with unique physical properties: film-forming ability, adhesiveness, lubricity, and excellent solubility in water.

In cosmetics, Pullulan functions primarily as a film-forming polymer. When applied to skin in an aqueous solution, the Pullulan dissolves completely in water to create a clear, low-viscosity solution. As the water evaporates after application, the Pullulan forms a continuous, transparent, flexible film on the skin surface. This film has adhesive properties — it bonds lightly to the skin surface — and as it fully dries it creates a mild tightening sensation by contracting slightly. The physical tightening of the film on the skin surface creates a visible smoothing effect on the skin surface appearance. This is an entirely physical, cosmetic mechanism — there is no biological activity involved.

Pullulan has a significantly lower viscosity in aqueous solution than most polysaccharide alternatives (Xanthan Gum, Carbomers, Hydroxyethylcellulose). This is a formulation advantage: at the use levels required for film-forming function, Pullulan contributes minimal thickness to the base formulation, allowing the formulator to precisely control the final texture without the viscosity trade-off of gelling agents. Its lubricity — the reduced friction coefficient confirmed in the Nagase data — creates a characteristically smooth skin feel that is significantly different from carbomer-based formulations.

Benefits

•        Film-forming on skin surface — physical smoothing function: Pullulan is a film-forming agent. Pullulan forms a transparent, flexible, adhesive film on the skin surface as the water phase evaporates post-application. The film physically smooths the skin surface and creates a mild tightening sensation. This is a physical cosmetic function, not a biological claim.

•        Excellent lubricity vs Carbomers: The Nagase data shows statistically significant lower mean coefficient of friction for Pullulan vs Carbomer A, B, and C at 0.3% in a cream base (p less than 0.01). Pullulan solution has significantly better extensibility and skin slip than equivalent carbomer-based formulations. Use QUALIFIED language referencing in-vitro friction measurement, not as an absolute consumer benefit claim.

•        Adhesive and binding properties — masks and makeup: Pullulan is an adhesive. The adhesive properties make Pullulan valuable for peel-off mask formulations (where the mask film must adhere to the skin surface for peel-off function), powder binding in pressed products, and long-wear foundations and mascaras.

•        COSMOS approved and ECOCERT GREENLIFE verified: Pullulan is an approved natural-origin ingredient for COSMOS-certified cosmetic products. This is commercially valuable for Indian indie brands positioning products for international natural and organic certification.

•        Halal certified:  Pullulan is fermentation-derived from starch — no animal-derived components. The Halal certification supports use in products positioned for the Indian Halal-certified cosmetics segment.

•        Water-soluble — direct water phase addition: Freely soluble in water. Add directly to the water phase of formulations. No heating or special solubilisation required at standard cosmetic use levels.

•        Lower viscosity than most polysaccharides: Pullulan has a lower viscosity in aqueous solution than most polysaccharide thickening agents at equivalent concentrations per Nagase technical data. Allows film-forming function without excessive viscosity build, enabling the formulator to independently control texture and film function.

•        Fermentation-derived with low environmental impact : Produced by microbial fermentation — a renewable, low-solvent biotechnology process. Used in biodegradable packaging and pharmaceutical capsules in non-cosmetic applications. The fermentation origin supports sustainable sourcing claims for natural-positioned brands.

Applications

Instant Tightening Serum — Primary Commercial Application: At 5% Pullulan in a water-based serum with Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, and preservative, the Pullulan film-forming function creates the commercially marketed 'instant tightening serum' category. After application, the serum creates a slight film-tightening sensation as the water evaporates — visible skin surface smoothing effect occurs within 30 to 60 minutes of application. This is the Pullulan application with the highest commercial demand in the Indian indie market.

Peel-Off Mask: At 10 to 20% Pullulan in a water-based gel formulation, the strong film-forming function creates the peel-off mask film. Pullulan's adhesive properties keep the mask adhered to the skin surface during the leave-on period and allow clean peel-off. The gel can include additional actives (Kaolin, Green Tea, Charcoal) at lower concentrations. Pullulan creates a cleaner, more transparent, and more pleasant-to-peel film than PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) alternatives.

Toner and Essence: At 0.5 to 1% in a toner or essence, Pullulan provides a light film-forming and lubricity function that improves the skin feel of the toner after application — the characteristic 'bouncy' or 'dewy' texture associated with Korean essence formulations. At this low concentration the film is very light and non-occlusive.

Sheet Mask Solution: At 1 to 3% in a sheet mask solution, Pullulan's adhesive properties improve the adhesion of the sheet mask to the skin surface during wear and the lubricity improves the skin feel during and after the mask.

Foundation and Long-Wear Makeup: At 0.1 to 1% in foundation formulations, Pullulan's adhesive properties improve long-wear skin adhesion and the lubricity improves texture and application feel. Suitable for liquid and cushion foundation formulations.

Hair Styling: At 0.5 to 3% in hair styling gels and serums, Pullulan's film-forming and adhesive properties provide light hold and shine without the stiffness of synthetic film-forming polymers.

How to Use

Recommended Use Level: 0.1 to 5.0% for skin care. 5.0% for instant tightening serums. 10 to 20% for peel-off and wash-off masks. Per Nagase technical brochure.

Phase Addition: Freely soluble in water. Add Pullulan powder to the water phase with stirring. Pullulan dissolves completely in water at room temperature at standard cosmetic use levels. At higher concentrations (above 5%) warming the water phase to 40 to 50 degrees Celsius and using a high-shear mixer may accelerate complete dissolution.

pH Compatibility: Pullulan is pH-stable across the standard cosmetic range. No specific pH adjustment required for the Pullulan component — it is compatible with the pH range of serums, toners, and creams (pH 4.5 to 7.5).

Viscosity: Pullulan has lower viscosity in aqueous solution than most polysaccharide alternatives. At 1% in water, Pullulan solution is essentially mobile and non-viscous. At 5%, viscosity begins to build but remains below typical carbomer or Xanthan Gum solutions at equivalent concentration. The film-forming function does not require viscosity build in the formulation.

Combination with other polymers: Pullulan is compatible with Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Betaine, and standard cosmetic polymers. It can be combined with Xanthan Gum or Carbomers in the water phase to achieve both film-forming function (Pullulan) and viscosity build (Xanthan/Carbomer) independently.

Claims You Can Make

For your label and marketing:

Film-Forming Polysaccharide | Pullulan | COSMOS Approved | ECOCERT GREENLIFE Verified | Halal Certified | Fermentation-Derived | Water-Soluble | Skin Conditioning

For your formulator brief:

Film Forming | Skin Conditioning Agent | Adhesive | INCI: Pullulan | CAS: 9057-02-7 | Freely soluble in water | Lower viscosity than carbomers at equivalent concentration | COSMOS approved | Halal certified | Use 0.1 to 5% skin care, 5% instant tightening serum, 10 to 20% peel-off mask

For formulation ratios, batch guidance, and troubleshooting support, contact the CosmySupplies team directly.

WhatsApp   |  Email: info@cosmysupplies.com

Technical Information

Pairs Well With

Hyaluronic Acid at 0.2 to 0.5% in the water phase alongside Pullulan at 5% creates the definitive instant tightening serum formulation — Pullulan provides the film-forming tightening function and HA provides the humectant hydration. The combination is the most commercially popular instant serum format in the Korean and Japanese serum markets.

Niacinamide at 5% alongside Pullulan at 1% in a serum creates a multi-active formulation combining the skin conditioning and pore-minimising function of Niacinamide with the smooth film-forming texture enhancement of Pullulan. The Pullulan's lubricity improves the skin feel of the Niacinamide serum and the film-forming function adds a 'bouncy' dewy texture.

Kaolin at 5 to 10% in a Pullulan mask base (15% Pullulan) creates a clay peel-off mask with the physical exfoliant and oil-absorbing function of Kaolin combined with the peel-off film of Pullulan. One of the most commercially accessible DIY peel-off mask formulations.

Nano Retinol at 5 to 7.5% in the water phase alongside Pullulan at 0.5 to 1% creates a premium retinol serum with improved skin feel — the Pullulan lubricity and light film-forming function enhances the texture of the liposomal retinol serum without affecting the retinol delivery system.

Betaine Powder at 2 to 3% alongside Pullulan at 0.5 to 1% in a toner or serum base adds osmolyte humectant hydration alongside the film-forming texture enhancement of Pullulan.

Important Information

For formulation use in cosmetic products. Water-soluble polysaccharide. For external cosmetic use in finished products only. Keep out of reach of children. Store at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, high temperature, and humidity.